How to Replace Brake Pads on a Bike - Disc Brakes

Modem bikes are commonly disc brake designs either mechanical or hydraulic. The traditional simple rim brake designs have been around for decades long before disc now relatively allocated to cheep model line ups today.

Hydrologic are controlled by fluid in a master cylinder on the handle bars. When you apply the handle bar levers they push pistons in master cylinder. Fluid is compressed all the way down the cable lines pushing positions in the caliper pushing spring loaded pads onto the disc. When you release the handle bar lever the spring loaded pads part the disc. Hydraulic drum brake designs operate the same basic principle operating the drum shoes inside the drum.

Mechanical disc brakes like rim brakes are controlled by an inner wire cable inside the outer cable from the handle bars down to the caliper lever just like rim brake designs. The caliper lever compresses spring loaded pads clamping the disc.

An important detail with mechanical brakes there are two designs one of which is your bike. One arrangement one pad is fixed. It doesn't move. When you apply the handle bar brake levers they pull external caliber levers pulling the moving spring loaded pad to the disc. A flexing disc is pressed on to the stationary pad so both pads clamp it.

When you release the lever the spring tension pulls the pad away. The disc flexes away from the stationary pad. Bikes fitted with this arrangement braking power in bike reviews tend to be wanting. The other arrangement both brakes move compressing the disc.

An important detail in trouble shooting is the effect of weather exposure. There are bikes with drum brake designs that tend make theses brakes relatively weather proof. Never the less corrosion stiffness in exposed cables specially brake pad springs may have occurred. Corroded spring system can't move the pads away from the disk properly. One or both pads are inefficiently clearing of the disc.

Corroded inner cable and pad spring stiffness is often the cause of poor brake performance.
A good old fashioned going round freeing up the corrosion with a bit of light oil can do the trick.

Don't just pure anywhere. Look where you put it. Concentrate running down between the brake caliber lever (not between the brake pad gap) concentrating oiling the inner wire cables and spring system. Avoid the pads. It dries them out to hard and dry causing brake squealing problems. Worst case bad juddering. Anti-corrosion spray is tricky as it severely dries up pads. Not recommended. Pads don't need that. They should be left moist.

Replacing pads reassembly skill is by far the most important for getting anything running smoothly again. Make sure you know you can reassemble your brakes to a satisfactory running order. The best bet is is to study You tube tutorials. Type in your search engine keywords youtube park tool how to Replace Brake Pads on Bike Disc Brakes. This clip goes though step by step of every possible brake style you will recognize on your bike.

Poor braking performance is likely due corrosion cable and pad spring stiffness not moving the pads efficiently. A major sign needing replacement is neglect to a point obvious metal to metal scrapping coming from the wheel every time you apply the brakes.

Do it yourself (DIY) alternative to a workshop bike stand there is always the alternative bike upside resting on the seat and handle bars. A detail everything is upside down what would be the right way up in youtube clip videos is is upside down to your perspective.