Fixing bicycle wheel wobble problems

One of the major inconveniences of cycling is flat break downs. Why do I always get flats? What am I doing wrong? Flats occur when tires have gotten warn to a state of baldness or slick tires deigns (Minimal tread). Sudden and dramatic is a picked up piece of glass, tax, or a sliver or wire, anything the punctures though the lining of the tire. Sometimes only the valve just let go.

Specially electric commuters and road bikes have shifted away from the traditional skinny slick pursuit racing tires. They are considered as vantage style theses days. Balled have gotten to a stage the rubber has become thin they start to developed a trend of a persistently going down.

They tend to pick up a collection of tiny fragments embedding themselves in the thinning rubber. Depending on your luck, they can remain there for weeks without a problem. Then one day..........!

A few electric bikes are tubeless tires even some pursuit racing bikes. If your unfamiliar with theses doesn't mean they are solid. There air filled. Valves sit in the rim hole. They are inflated the same way as traditional inner tube tires. Flats are kept to a minimum by thick hides very wide, knobby and Lots of thick tread.

Any do it yourself (DIY) owner getting themselves mobile again need experience and skill with both tube and tubeless disconnecting any electrics to remove wheels, remove tires and inner tubes, find the cause of the puncture, patch it and reassemble running smoothly again.

Specially computer electric bikes tires and inner tubes have been developed as flat proof as possible specially tubeless tires. They are designed with a thick hides with deep tread patterns that even tacks can't penetrate.

Tubeless tires rely on a creamy air tight sealant inside the tire acting as a inner tube to keep theses tires sealed. If a tubeless tire lets you down it's often the sealant somewhere in the tire including old hole that has been compromised for some reason. Patching tubeless tires tend to be only temporary while patching holes in inner tubes can be permanent.

The other thing that can flatten tires including tubeless unlucky enough to pick up a large enough nail or old remains of vehicle crash sliver of old glass you have picked up embedded in the tire. Examining round the circumference sometimes come across evidence ran over some tar or sticky gum that stuck a glob of tiny stones and glass fragments.

Tiny pieces including stone chips pushed deeply hidden out of eye sight sight rubber of the of balding tires, where they can be overlooked. Hidden bodies left in any tire will keep puncturing the inner tube, time and time again. These have to be found and removed  before you do anything else.

I don't have to remind you of the dangers of picking out with a sharp poker while tires are fully inflated with tragic results. It is best done vacuum flat. A needle point poker is ideal getting at the suspect fragment. Blunt instruments tend to push the offending object deeper into the tire in an tempt to lever it out.

Those who are not prepared with a emergency repairer kit often found themselves caught out miles from anywhere. Bad luck forced to walk our bikes on a flat for miles. With the offending object still in the tire the odds of destroying the inner tube beyond reaper not to mention permanently damaging the tire is extremely high. The offending object must be found and removed before you move on.
One of the tricks experienced cyclists do with tubules tires getting themselves mobile on the side of the road is always carrying a spare inner tube and tools to do the job.

They scan closely every inch for offending objects microscope scrutiny. Large objects are quickly fond. If not concentrate scanning for tiny slivers of glass and stones. Flick them out out with a poker before you start repeating.

Many Owners who spend all their time on the road have learnt form experience to carry an emergency inner tube or tubeless tire repair kit including a spare inner tube and all the necessary tools to remove the wheels, and most important of all pump. Even a spare inner tube. You can patch the old one when you get home used as a spare for next time. They often save cyclists.

Once you have removed any possibility of any suspicious fragments in tubeless or tube tires you can proceed to remove the wheel tire and inner tube. Your next job is to search for the the hole     .

If the wheel, tire and inner tub are removed turning your attention to inside the tire can be reveling. The inside fabric is good contrast allowing easy spotting. Once found, it is a simple mater of pushing out from the inside ideal avoiding the risk of the probe leveraging from the outside puncturing the inner tube.

With experience replacing a inner tube in a tubeless tire can be done. An important detail is to remove the tubeless tire valve core first. Keep it in a safe place you you can put your hands on it straight away for latter. You may need to wipe up the residual remains of the old sealant inside tubeless tires. Replace the inner tub valve feeding in the rest of the inner tube.

Inner tube patch failures are frustrating. It is often a sign of over looking a hidden pin hole when given up because you couldn't find anything in the tire or inner tube hole. You have overlooked a tiny sliver of glass or stone.

Another sign a possible leaking patch. The surface of the tube was not properly prepared and the cement not fully covered all the patch properly. Air is easily escaping out the edges.

Pin holes are so tiny they hide themselves like tires are notoriously hard to find. They are very tricky needing clever tricks to find these. If in a hurry microscope scanning slows you right down.

The only thing you can do is to pump up the inner tube to help expand the pin hole enough eventually catching a feel of a column of escaping air. Another sign repair failure is damage beyond reaper done to inner tube and tire walking or worse riding the bike for several miles on the flat tire.

Electric bikes tires are fat and some e-bikes tubeless. Tubeless tires have an air tight. Don't disregard as they are essential part of tubeless tires. Check the tire let down is due to a rubber seal leak in the valve. Wet whether exposure can detiarrate seals. Experienced cyclists prepared carry a spare tubeless tire valve as part of their kits.

A detail of tubeless tires is in the edge of the rim. Inner tube rims have a hook edge. Tubeless rims are flat. It is a mistake to fit a tubeless tire on a inner tube rim. And vice versa a tube tire on a tubeless tire rim. The tire rim beads don't seat properly. When fitting a new tire make sure the rim is hooked for the tube rim and the rim flat for the tubeless rim tire. Or make sure the tire is hooked for the tube rim and flat for the tubeless rim.

Quickly objects are big enough to leave a deep cut in both tubeless and tube tires. Plugging tubeless tire cuts is a bit of an art. They tend to big for permanent repaired. Warn out tubeless tires expanding the cut tubeless tire sealant has problems holding the cut together.

Warn out inner tube tires fatigue expands into a bump in the middle of the circumference by air pressure by the inner tube. Inner tubs are often seen in the bump creating a bumping hop when riding.

Old tires like these need a new or good tire replacement. For patching big cuts in tubeless tire cut details can be checked out entering keywords in your search engine filed bar youtube fixing bike tubeless tire.

Back to inner tubes if you have access to a sink or bath tub, no pin hole can ever escape an under whiter check. On the side of the road there is nothing you can do but persevere with expanding the inner tube full of air. The pin hole will be eventually be found. Provided you haven't walked you bike on a flat for a distance there will be no damage done to the tire and inner tube. Repair should be straight forward

Patches tend to hold fast compressing dips in the inner tube at that point. Tires don't balance leaving uneven pressure on the tire. The patch makes the a week inner tube pressure point where the rest of the tube takes the pressure resulting uneven inner tube pressure transferred to the tire.

Tire rims that look like they are not seat properly on the steel rim have been damaged either by scraping curbs but most of all a too tight tire fitting on the rim. Observing the tire rim seating of new and good bikes is a good guide of what things should be. The tire rim is a perfect circle running parallel with the entire circumference of the steel rim in perfect symmetry.

Too tight tires or even loose to get off and on is a sign of wrong tire size. Look for distorted and uneven circling of the tire. The tire rim can look as if it is not going to hold on for long in some places. Severe damage is likely caused by someone forcing a too tight tire off and on the steel rim with damaging levers ripping and tearing at the steel wire of the tire's rim. Too loose causes the same results. Things are made worse by uneven inner tube pressures.

Rider weight compresses soft tires and inner tubes specially loose a loose fit wrong tire size. Any added uneven inner tube pressure It stresses the walls of the tire rim bulge points. There will be potential further tire wall damage being done to the wrong tire size already week tire rim bulge.

The right tire size tire and inner tubes evenly distribute the pressure firmly and  evenly keeping the walls of the tires full. Right size tires pump hard and full not only makes riding feel solid and sturdy, but also reduces road paddle resistance in pedaling.

Constantly swapping with different tires, can lead to these kind of tire problems. The next time you have the tire off ( or access to any bicycle rim ) observe the inside edges of the tire and wheel rims. Most of us are unaware there is either a hooked or flat on the edge to bicycle rims. Correspondingly there should be a matching hook or flat design in the rim of the tire with the rim rim.

Looking at tire rims you will find 2 types a hook or a flat edge. If you assemble a hooked tire on a flat edged rim the tire doesn't sit properly. There will be tire damage issues transferred to the inner tube too as well. So too, a flat edge tire rim assembled on a hooked rim is a miss match fit. Hook or flat rims need proper corresponding hooked or flat rim edge matting. If the rim is hooked the tire rim must be hooked. If the rim is flat rimed the tire needs to be flat rimed.

Other causes ignoring arrows pointing in the drive direction when refitting. Pointing the opposite drive direction for both rear and front wheel, there will be tire damage issues transferred to the inner tube as well.

Bikes are best upside down resting on the seat and handle bars turning the wheel. Observe if there is any arrow on the tire wall. Turning the wheel in the drive direction note the arrow pointing direction.

If a well warn and smooth tire at this point you can check round the circumference of the tire to see if an offending object can found out side the tire assessment.

Having a good inner tube on hand will get you going as quickly the time it takes to replace it. Otherwise salvaged with a patchy reaper kit. If at a petrol station you're lucky with the handy free air pump station.

If on the side of the road you will need a hand pump. Pumping up the inner tube out of the tire will reveal If a previous patch is leaking. Inflating the inner tube you will soon feel a column of air from the patch or an expanded hole air leak giving itself away. If a leaking patch is not holding fast any more. Sometimes we can't find the holes this way.

This is cause by a tiny hole caused by a tiny overlooked peace of stone or glass chip. The pin holes they cause are notorious to find. The only way to find these holes on the side of the road is to supper inflate the inner tube with a hand pump to help expand the hole enough to feel air escaping. The worst thing with tiny pin holes air often escapes faster than you can supper inflate.

If you have access to a tube of water no hole can escape the under water test. Otherwise forced to do the best you can where you are. Keep expanding the inner tube feeling round the circumference for a column of air. It is often a help to stretch pulling and tugging the inner tube as you inflate to encourage the pin hole to open enough to feel the column of air.

A sign of leaking patches the surface of the inner tube wasn't properly prepared that can easily be ripped off. Patches that can't is the way they should be. Properly prepared inner tube surface you should never be able to tear off. If it does is your flatting source you can to tear off and start over with proper cleaning up again. If you don't clean off the reaming cement residue the patch will always have the same problem.

Tearing off there will be mess of reaming cement left. Applying new cement straight over it is the cause patch repair failure. This residue must be cleaned off.

Using fine engineering emery paper just won't cut it with out a lot of time and effort. To fine and time consuming. You will need coarse carpenter's sand pepper or the the cheese grater scraper provided in your patchy kit. If you don't scrape off the remaining comment the new cement will never hold. Scrape all of it away the whole area the new patch.

If a patch is not a concern you can pay attention on finding the hole in the tube with the pump. In the case of a budget hand pumps making no headway, depending whether you are left or right handed, you may need to stretch out the rubber of the as you pump to encourage the pin hole to expand.

One of the sign of a poor hand pump is previous under water tests finding pin holes when the pump has gotten wet and amerced in the water. This is a mistake because the wet rots the rubber seals causing no air sealing rendering the pump useless. When dealing with under water tests don't get the pump wet or you will be faced with a useless pump.

When you feel a column of air you have located the hole. Well warm and sooth baled tires that collect tiny slivers of stone and glass chips causing theses pin holes are extremely easy to loose site of. So it is prudent while you have the chance stretch the inner tube rubber so the hole is manageable. Once lost relocating them is difficult to find again. You can apply circling the pin in the center of a circle spot with a ball point pen.

Prepare the surface of the inner tube with cause carpenters sand paper or the cheese grater like scrapper provided with the patchy kit. If you don't scrape a cause clean area round the hole the size of the patch, the cement won't hold, otherwise air will leak from the edges another patch repair failure.
If you scrape the area bigger than the patch you're covering your bases the edges of the patch properly. As you scrape you will observe it often hides the hole. This is where the pen circle cones in handy before you started scrapping. When scraped bigger then the edges of the patch patches tend to be sturdy standing up the rigors of tire pressure for a long time.

If you're using a brand new kit, unscrew the cap. In the top is a little pin. Turn over and pierce the silver seal. Don't empty the container or you will end up a messy glob. Don't squeeze it. Let a drop out to a small glob right on the whole. Replace the cap.

Stretch the hole wide to let some of the cement drain into it and let close to help the cement plug it. When spreading the cement spread larger than the patch covering your bases the cement is clean or particles, grease and dirt contaminates the cement. Even dry clean fingers still can leave residue oily finger grease. Be careful with seating on hot summer days.

Make sure you allow the cement to dry sticky covering well the area of the patch. As you apply the cement you will observe it tends to hide the hole. Patches stick best when applied when the cement is tacky. Now you can tear off the silver backing of the patch.

It is not really necessary, but a helpful option covering you're bases for leak free edges to spread some cement on the underside of the patch itself spreading to the edges. Let dry tacky.

You will observe spreading the cement hides the hole. Eye up the best you can a line of site the center of the pen circle marker ( or the hole itself, if you can see it ) to the center of the patch and press on. You will only have one shot the cement hiding the hole, as the cement will stick fast immediately.
Watch your eye angle coordination on the hidden hole squares the patch exactly centering it in the center of the patch. Use any round edge pressing down the edges. Don't concentrate so much on the center but round the edges of the patch.

If you have a spare inner tube, that is beyond reaper you can use it as a shoe inside well warn smooth tires. Cut off the valve. A patch can be used to cover the gapping hole. The spare helps to act as a buffer shoe between the inside roof of the tire and the ball of the inner tube the tire rides on. All this depends on if you have the right size tire or it will only make things worse and how badly thin the rubber or the tire has become still picking up tiny stone and glass chips. Never the less with the right size tire the shoe inner tube is a help.

Before you reassemble the tire don't forget about any direction of the drive arrow on the tire wall must correspond with the crank drive direction. Now the inner tube can be reassembled back into the tire and fit the tire the arrow pointing in the direction of free wheel or sprocket crank push direction.

You may have experienced a tight getting off or on tight tire. A proper scrapping the patch will be sturdy enough to pump up to the maximum tire pressure recommended on the tire wall of the tire. Pumped up to the maximum recommended tire pressure we feel a sturdy solid and easier ride.  Fitting an extra shoe might be difficult to get the tire back on tough.

Other than that, an expense inner tube has a extra thick hide making them puncture resistant. Expensive tires essentially the same lining the inside. The anti puncture compound built into expensive tires  is what makes them more expensive.